His head still swirling with superlatives, Lester Ledesma writes about his recent visit to Kashmir. The ancient Mughal emperor Jahangir’s royal playground has definitely worked its magic on him.
The shikara glides gently through water, its wooden bow casting ripples onto the surface. Around me there is nothing but stillness; a long row of houseboats lie anchored nearby, their outlines obscured by the early morning fog. A deep blue hue covers everything else. It is just before dawn here on the Dal Lake. I am sitting on a tiny canoe, a thick woolen blanket covering me as I bask in the chilly highland weather. Behind me, my butler Akhbar breaks the silence with his oar as he rows us somewhere. He does not say where, only that the place we are going to is “very nice”. “Be patient”, he says with a shake of the head, “you will see it very soon.”
In this half-darkness I try to gather whatever sense of place I can. Somewhere far away I hear a rooster crow. Close by, still unseen, another shikara is being paddled. As the sky gradually brightens, Akhbar brings our vehicle to a bobbing halt. Here, seemingly in the midst of nowhere, we watch as the light slowly changes from cold blue to a fiery yellow. Sunrise cuts through the mist, revealing the Dal Lake in all its glory. Save for a few ambling boats, the water remains still — but it now mirrors a grand vista of snow-capped mountains and golden sky. This is nothing short of breathtaking. My mind swirls with superlatives — stunning, perfect, magnificent — these may be cliches, but they’re totally true. “Very nice, yes?” Akhbar asks.
I can only agree. It is only my first morning in Kashmir, but already I have fallen for this most legendary of places. Some destinations seduce you in a slow, steady fashion. Others require a bit of exploration before you discover its charms. Kashmir is different, it captures you right from the start. Like an irresistible woman she mystifies you at first, then she overwhelms you with her sheer beauty. Before you know it you are hopelessly in love.
Needless to say, I am not alone. For centuries, men have swooned, pined and even fought for this place. Located at the edge of Central Asia, Kashmir has always been known for its exquisite landscapes. At its heart is the Kashmir Valley — home to the Dal Lake and the ancient city of Srinagar — which lies at the foothills of the Himalayas. The Mughal emperor Jahangir, back in the 1600’s, called this land paradise on earth. The English thought likewise when they came here in droves during India’s colonial period, their most visible legacy being the countless Victorian-style houseboats by the lake. Kashmir’s beauty was its burden in the years after Indian independence, when it became the subject of border conflicts between its neighbouring countries. Although much of Kashmir is governed by India these days, parts of it are held by Pakistan in the north, and China in the east.
Politics notwithstanding, it isn’t hard to see why everyone wants a piece of this locale. The more I explore Kashmir, the more reasons I find. In the succeeding days, I sample more of the good emperor’s paradise. From my houseboat on the Dal (and with the help of its supremely capable butler), I travel ashore to check out the Moghul rulers’ most enduring legacy — a handful of sprawling pleasure gardens set amidst mountain springs and ancient Islamic architecture. Some of these were established by Jehangir himself, after he decided to fashion Kashmir into his own royal playground.
At the Shalimar Garden, I sit inside a centuries-old pavilion facing endless rows of fountains, imagining the man in his silk turban and gilded robes. Later on I saunter down the streets of downtown Srinagar, occasionally peeking past wooden doors into hallways perhaps yet unseen by western eyes. I also sample the food of the Kashmiris, from sweet, deep-fried paratha rolls in roadside dhaba eateries, to a sumptuous table spread topped with lamb rogan josh curry in my houseboat’s lavish confines. Not long afterwards I go further afield to the surrounding mountains. In Pahalgam I chat with Gujjar shepherds over roti bread and a hookah pipe, before setting off on a trek through the Lidder Valley.
Here the hillsides roll on forever; verdant meadows spread out to a grand backdrop of pine trees and distant peaks. My guide Yusof, a leathery Kashmiri with an outdoorsman’s gait, takes me to a trail that snakes alongside the Lidder River, past countryside inhabited by free-ranging horses and smiling Urdu folks. On the backs of ponies we push onward to the village of Aru, where the terrain is more vertical, yet even more breathtaking.
Steeped in all this visual poetry, I feel both humbled and blessed. My feet are a tad wobbly, no doubt because of the thin mountain air at this very high elevation
(10,000 feet above the sea). But it could just as well be this overwhelming display of nature that causes my knees to grow weak. Even the crusty Yusof, at times, can’t help but stop and stare at the scenery. “People pay me to take them around,” he says at one point, “but for me being here is its own reward.”
I follow his example the next afternoon, back at the Dal Lake. From the balcony of my houseboat I enjoy the simple delights of being in such an enchanting place. I look around as the Kashmiris begin to settle in for the night. On the nearby shore there is a rush hour of sorts, as a fleet of shikaras quietly shuttle back and forth taking people to their homes. A flower vendor floats by on his little paddleboat, followed by a shikara loaded with piles of flat bread — the local equivalent of the bakery truck. The smell of freshly-made roti still lingers as they slowly disappear into the horizon, their shapes perfectly mirrored against the silvery lake.
The butler Akhbar appears with a tray of kahwa tea, and we sip the tangy, cinnamon-infused liquid amidst pastel-hued sunlight. As we had done on my first day, we watch the brilliant skyshow over snow-capped mountains and mist. My heartstrings are tugged, I feel joy, fondness, love.
“It’s very nice,” I tell my companion. Once again, superlatives swirl in my head. Once again, Kashmir works its magic.
DREAM ESCAPES CONCEIRGE
Getting there
Most Indian domestic airlines service the Delhi-Srinagar route on a daily basis.
Adventurous travelers, though, can also consider heading to the city of Jammu by train,
and then taking the scenic eight-hour road trip north to Srinagar.
Ahdoos Hotel and Resturant
Srinagar’s first proper restaurant serves up tasty traditional Kasmiri dishes.
Residency Road, Srinagar, Kashmir, 190001
Tel: +91 194 247 2593
www.ahdooshotel.com
Shamiana Restaurant
In the land of curries and bread, Shamiana’s star attraction is faux “Italian” pizza — served with a South Asian twist.
Dal Lake Road, Srinagar, Kashmir, India
Where to Stay
Shabnam Houseboat
This traditional Victorian-styled Kashmiri houseboat is one of the more dependable lodging establishments located on the Dal Lake.
Tariffs include full-board meals, lakeside transportation and butler service.
Dal Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir, India
Tel: + 91 194 1900 3801
Hotel Broadway
Arguably the most luxurious western-style hotel in Srinagar, this establishment boasts 105 classy, fully furnished rooms.
There’s also a swimming pool, gym and a mini-theater.
Maulana Azad Road, Srinagar, Kashmir, India
Tel: +91 194 2459 001
www.hotelbroadway.com
